Say Peas

You're reading The Veggie newsletter. Tanya Sichynsky shares the most delicious vegetarian recipes for weeknight cooking, packed lunches and dinner parties. Get it sent to your inbox. When I got home from the gym the other night, I made a beeline for the freezer in search of a bag of peas. Not to ice my clicky knees -- though, believe me, they needed it -- but because I genuinely wanted to eat a bag of peas. I blame Young Gun Lee, one of the talented culinary producers I have the privilege of working with at our kitchen studio. Last week, she miraculously sourced some early-season fresh peas, sweet and bouncy, for the next episode of our Veggie video series (no spoilers!). I tossed one high into the air, catching it in my mouth like a show dog. Delighted by its pop, I tossed another. And another. It's not every day I get to eat a fresh pea. But it doesn't need to be! Because the frozen ones are just as good, if not better, than the in-season ones -- and certainly a lot less work to hunt down, not to mention no shelling. April's meteorological unpredictability often calls for dishes that are springy yet soothing, like Kay Chun's five-star baked risotto with greens and peas. Skip the steady stirring in favor of this recipe, which requires only five minutes of sautéing before you slide the pot into the oven for 20 minutes. As the days continue to warm, throw in other seasonal vegetables like Swiss chard and asparagus. Baked Risotto With Greens and Peas View this recipe. Similarly hearty yet bright is Melissa Clark's polenta with asparagus, peas and mint. Like Kay's risotto, the polenta here can be a hands-off matter; Melissa prefers to cook hers in the oven, and provides both baking and stove-top instructions to suit your needs. I might throw some leeks and edamame into the buttery, vermouth-laced vegetable topping while I'm at it, at the behest of a few commenters and my own tastes. But when the temperature dips again (and, trust me, it will), a light pea soup might be the move to keep your sights on the promises of spring. Ali Slagle's spring barley soup, Alison Roman's spring tofu soup and Kay's spring minestrone with kale and pasta are like sisters. They are all brothy and gentle (and, if you skip the pesto in the minestrone, all vegan), but each has its own distinct style. Which speaks to you the most? The tenderness of simmered grains, the giggle of soft tofu, the firm bite of ditalini? This one-pan stew of artichokes and peas, from Melissa, is decidedly creamier than those soupy sisters, ready to be sopped up by your crustiest loaf of bread. Save it for a rainy day, literally. April will bring plenty. The month will also bring my favorite springtime herbs: dill, mint, tarragon. Sprinkle any combination of them on top, with plenty of lemon zest. I had no idea tarragon was so controversial, but based on the recipe comments, it might give cilantro a run for its money! I should tell you now that, to my chagrin, there were no peas in my freezer. But the craving has not wavered. So I'll be picking some up this weekend, because I do happen to have all the other ingredients (of which there are not many) for Clare de Boer's pea and ricotta frittata. That's an Easter brunch centerpiece if I've ever seen one, stately and luxurious, though hardly effortful or expensive. "When your guests start looking up and saving the recipe during lunch, you know it is a hit," one reader wrote. The peas please indeed. Polenta With Asparagus, Peas and Mint View this recipe. Spring Tofu Soup View this recipe. Pea and Ricotta Frittata View this recipe. One More Thing! Bleak: "Berries are often the first category where consumers notice fuel inflation." Chic: Did someone say Earl Grey chocolate tart? Thanks for reading, and see you next week! Email us at theveggie@nytimes.com. Newsletters are archived here. Reach out to my colleagues at cookingcare@nytimes.com if you have questions about your account.